COUMARIN
Commonly Found In
Overview
Coumarin is a naturally occurring benzopyrone found in tonka beans and cassia cinnamon, widely used as a fragrance ingredient in fougère, oriental, and tobacco-type perfumes for its sweet, vanilla-hay, freshly-mown-grass aroma. It is a mandatory EU labeling allergen in cosmetics above 0.001% in leave-on products (Annex III/77). At high oral doses, animal studies indicate hepatotoxicity, which led to restrictions on coumarin as a food additive in the US and EU; however, dermal exposure in cosmetics at typical use concentrations is not considered to present a comparable risk by regulatory authorities. Sensitization rates in cosmetic use are relatively low, making it one of the lower-allergenicity EU-regulated fragrance allergens.
Also known as: Coumarin, 1,2-Benzopyrone, 2H-Chromen-2-one, Benzo-Ξ±-pyrone, Tonka Bean Camphor
Key Benefits
Coumarin's cosmetic value is primarily as a fragrance ingredient; some research suggests potential anti-inflammatory and anticoagulant properties, but these are not the basis for its cosmetic use.
Skin Compatibility Ratings
Comedogenic Rating
Non-comedogenic; used in trace fragrance concentrations.
Source: SCCS/1547/15
Irritancy Rating
Relatively low contact sensitization rate among the EU-regulated fragrance allergens; hepatotoxicity concerns are associated with high oral intake, not typical dermal cosmetic exposure; EU mandatory label disclosure required above threshold
Source: EU SCCS fragrance allergen opinions; CIR Expert Panel
Typical Use Concentration
Range
0.001β2%
Optimal
0.01β0.5% in fragrance blends
EU mandatory labeling above 0.001% (leave-on) / 0.01% (rinse-off). Food use restricted separately in US and EU due to hepatotoxicity from oral intake. IFRA limits apply by product category.
Works Well With / Avoid
Works Well With
Use With Caution
EU mandatory label disclosure (Annex III/77) above 0.001% in leave-on products. The oral hepatotoxicity concern (basis for food additive restrictions) does not apply to typical topical cosmetic use at regulatory concentrations. IFRA provides concentration limits by product category.
Commonly Found In
Global Regulation Summary
Overview of current status across major international markets.
Detailed Regional Status
| Region | Status | Max Conc. | Conditions | Source |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| πͺπΊ EU | Banned | - | - | Official β |
| πΊπΈ USA | Allowed | - | - | Official β |
| π―π΅ Japan | Allowed | - | - | Official β |
| π°π· Korea | Unknown | - | - | Official β |
| π¬π§ UK | Restricted | - | Follows EU regulations (III/77) | Official β |
π Why Regulations Differ
The EU requires mandatory label disclosure of coumarin (Annex III/77) in cosmetics as a consumer allergen information measure; it is not prohibited in cosmetics. The EU and US separately restrict coumarin as a food additive due to hepatotoxicity from oral intake. These food and cosmetic regulatory frameworks are distinct. The US and Japan do not require specific labeling for coumarin in cosmetics.
Regulation Analysis
Regional Agreement
Banned in EU but allowed in USA, Japan.
Category Comparison
There are 219 ingredients in the PERFUMING category. 100% are banned in at least one major market.
Strictness Ranking
πΏ Natural Sources
Found naturally in tonka beans (1-3%), cassia cinnamon (up to 6%), sweet woodruff (dried, up to 1.5%), and sweet clover. Also present in lavender, licorice, strawberries, cherries, apricots, and many other plants in smaller amounts. Tonka bean absolute is the traditional natural source.
π How It's Made
Naturally extracted from tonka beans through solvent extraction to produce tonka bean absolute. Synthetically produced via the Perkin reaction: salicylaldehyde reacts with acetic anhydride in the presence of sodium acetate. Virtually all commercial coumarin is synthetic due to cost efficiency and regulatory restrictions on tonka bean use in foods.
π Uses in Cosmetics
Used as fragrance component in oriental, fougère, and tobacco-type perfumes at 0.01-2% concentration. Provides sweet, vanilla-hay, freshly-mown-grass aroma. EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 Annex III/77 requires mandatory labeling above 0.001% (leave-on) or 0.01% (rinse-off). Popular in men's fragrances and aftershaves.
π¬ Other Applications
Banned as food additive in USA and restricted in EU due to hepatotoxicity concerns (though small natural amounts in foods are tolerated). Used as rodenticide and anticoagulant (warfarin derivative). Has pharmaceutical applications: anticoagulant drugs, treatment for lymphedema. Also used in tobacco flavoring (regulated) and as analytical chemistry standard.
π‘ Fun Facts
- β’ One of 26 EU-regulated fragrance allergens requiring labeling since 2003 under Annex III/77.
- β’ First synthesized in 1868 by William Henry Perkin, making it one of the first synthetic fragrance materials.
- β’ The characteristic 'new-mown hay' smell is caused by coumarin released when grass is cut and dried.
Related Skin Concerns
Data Sources
- β’ EU CosIng database (Annex III/77)
- β’ SCCS fragrance allergen opinions
- β’ CIR Expert Panel β coumarin safety assessment
- β’ IFRA Standards
- β’ EU food additive regulation on coumarin (Regulation EC 1334/2008)
Last data verification: 2026-04-16
Related Ingredients
ABIES ALBA CONE EXTRACT
BENZYL ALCOHOL
CEDRUS ATLANTICA BARK OIL
CINNAMAL
CITRAL
CITRONELLOL
Learn More
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is COUMARIN banned in the EU but allowed in the US?
The EU follows a precautionary principle, banning COUMARIN under III/77 due to potential safety concerns. The US FDA has not found sufficient evidence to prohibit its use, allowing it under different safety assessment standards. This reflects differing regulatory philosophies between the two regions.
Why is COUMARIN banned in the EU but allowed in Japan?
The EU prohibits COUMARIN (III/77) based on their strict safety criteria. Japan's Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) has evaluated the ingredient and permits its use, potentially with different safety data or usage conditions.
What is COUMARIN used for in cosmetics?
COUMARIN is primarily used for perfuming in cosmetic products. The ingredient is commonly found in various cosmetic and personal care products.
Which countries regulate COUMARIN?
COUMARIN is banned in EU. It has concentration limits or usage restrictions in UK. The ingredient is freely allowed in JP, US.
Are there alternatives to COUMARIN?
Due to regulatory restrictions on COUMARIN, cosmetic manufacturers often use alternative ingredients with similar functions. For perfuming, alternatives may include other approved ingredients in the same category. Consult product labels for specific formulations, and look for products compliant with your region's regulations.
Disclaimer
The information on this website is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. While we strive for accuracy based on official government databases, cosmetic regulations change frequently. Always consult with a qualified professional or refer to the latest official regulatory documents for compliance. We are not responsible for any actions taken based on the information provided here.