EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT
Commonly Found In
Overview
Evernia prunastri lichen extract (Oakmoss Absolute) is a complex natural fragrance material derived from Evernia prunastri lichen that grows on oak trees in European and North American temperate forests. It has been a cornerstone ingredient in Chypre and FougΓ¨re perfumery since the early 20th century. The extract contains atranol and chloroatranol β potent sensitizing impurities that studies identify as among the strongest contact allergens in cosmetics. The EU restricts use under Annex III/91, and IFRA limits atranol plus chloroatranol combined to a maximum of 100 ppm in finished fragrances. Its use in EU cosmetics therefore requires strict compliance with these concentration controls. The US and Japan permit use without equivalent mandatory restrictions.
Also known as: Oakmoss Absolute, Evernia prunastri Extract, Oakmoss Extract, Mousse de ChΓͺne Absolue
Key Benefits
Oakmoss extract's cosmetic value is entirely as a fragrance ingredient; studies identify its atranol and chloroatranol content as among the strongest contact sensitizers known, with no established direct skin benefit.
Skin Compatibility Ratings
Comedogenic Rating
Non-comedogenic; oakmoss extract is a fragrance material used at trace concentrations.
Source: IFRA Standards; SCCS/1484/12
Irritancy Rating
Atranol and chloroatranol in oakmoss are among the most potent contact allergens in cosmetics; sensitization rates are substantial in patch-tested populations; IFRA restricts the combined atranol + chloroatranol content to maximum 100 ppm in finished fragrances
Source: EU SCCS/1610/19 opinion on atranol/chloroatranol; IFRA allergen restrictions; contact dermatitis literature
Typical Use Concentration
Range
0.01β5% (historical); restricted in practice by allergen limits
Optimal
Use restricted by atranol + chloroatranol β€ 100 ppm (IFRA limit in finished fragrance)
EU Annex III/91 restriction applies. IFRA limits drive practical use concentrations down significantly. Allergen-reduced grades available commercially. EU database status 'banned' reflects Annex III restriction classification.
Works Well With / Avoid
Works Well With
Use With Caution
EU Annex III/91 restricts use; compliance requires atranol + chloroatranol †100 ppm per IFRA. Allergen-reduced or atranol-depleted versions are commercially available but alter the scent profile. The US and Japan have no equivalent mandatory restrictions. Most major perfume houses have reformulated classic Chypre/Fougère fragrances to comply.
Commonly Found In
Global Regulation Summary
Overview of current status across major international markets.
Detailed Regional Status
| Region | Status | Max Conc. | Conditions | Source |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| πͺπΊ EU | Banned | - | - | Official β |
| πΊπΈ USA | Allowed | - | - | Official β |
| π―π΅ Japan | Allowed | - | - | Official β |
| π°π· Korea | Unknown | - | - | Official β |
| π¬π§ UK | Restricted | - | Follows EU regulations (III/91) | Official β |
π Why Regulations Differ
The EU restricts Evernia prunastri lichen extract (Annex III/91) due to its atranol and chloroatranol content, which are among the most potent identified contact allergens. IFRA independently restricts combined atranol + chloroatranol to 100 ppm. The US and Japan have not adopted equivalent mandatory restrictions, though industry voluntary compliance with IFRA standards is widespread. The EU's 'banned' database classification reflects the Annex III restricted status rather than a total prohibition.
Recent Regulatory Changes
- β’ IFRA 49th amendment further restricted atranol and chloroatranol limits in fragrances
- β’ EU proposed Cosmetics Regulation updates addressing allergen disclosure
Regulation Analysis
Regional Agreement
Banned in EU but allowed in USA, Japan.
Category Comparison
There are 219 ingredients in the PERFUMING category. 100% are banned in at least one major market.
Strictness Ranking
πΏ Natural Sources
Extracted from Evernia prunastri (oakmoss), a lichen species that grows on oak and other deciduous trees in temperate forests of Europe and North America.
π How It's Made
Extracted by solvent extraction (typically ethanol or hexane) from dried oakmoss lichen, yielding absolute or concrete containing atranol and chloroatranol (potent allergens).
π Uses in Cosmetics
Historic fixative and base note in classic perfumes (Chanel No. 5, Miss Dior). Banned in EU (Annex III/91) and restricted in UK due to atranol and chloroatranol allergen content. Allowed in US and Japan but increasingly replaced by synthetic alternatives. IFRA restricts atranol + chloroatranol to maximum 100 ppm in fragrances.
π¬ Other Applications
Fine fragrance perfumery (with allergen-reduced versions), traditional medicine as antimicrobial agent, ecological bioindicator for air quality monitoring.
π‘ Fun Facts
- β’ Oakmoss was a cornerstone ingredient in classic Chypre perfumes since Coty's 'Chypre' (1917) - the entire Chypre family is named after its oakmoss character
- β’ IFRA's 2001 allergen restrictions effectively killed many classic perfume formulations that relied heavily on oakmoss
- β’ Modern 'oakmoss absolute' often has atranol/chloroatranol chemically removed to meet regulatory limits, changing the scent profile significantly
Related Skin Concerns
Data Sources
- β’ EU CosIng database (Annex III/91)
- β’ SCCS/1610/19 β Opinion on atranol and chloroatranol
- β’ IFRA Standards β atranol/chloroatranol concentration limits
- β’ Contact dermatitis literature on oakmoss sensitization
Last data verification: 2026-04-16
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Frequently Asked Questions
Why is EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT banned in the EU but allowed in the US?
The EU follows a precautionary principle, banning EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT under III/91 due to potential safety concerns. The US FDA has not found sufficient evidence to prohibit its use, allowing it under different safety assessment standards. This reflects differing regulatory philosophies between the two regions.
Why is EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT banned in the EU but allowed in Japan?
The EU prohibits EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT (III/91) based on their strict safety criteria. Japan's Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) has evaluated the ingredient and permits its use, potentially with different safety data or usage conditions.
What is EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT used for in cosmetics?
EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT is primarily used for perfuming in cosmetic products. The ingredient is commonly found in various cosmetic and personal care products.
Which countries regulate EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT?
EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT is banned in EU. It has concentration limits or usage restrictions in UK. The ingredient is freely allowed in JP, US.
Are there alternatives to EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT?
Due to regulatory restrictions on EVERNIA PRUNASTRI LICHEN EXTRACT, cosmetic manufacturers often use alternative ingredients with similar functions. For perfuming, alternatives may include other approved ingredients in the same category. Consult product labels for specific formulations, and look for products compliant with your region's regulations.
Disclaimer
The information on this website is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. While we strive for accuracy based on official government databases, cosmetic regulations change frequently. Always consult with a qualified professional or refer to the latest official regulatory documents for compliance. We are not responsible for any actions taken based on the information provided here.